Similar looking to “wings” or bumps on a surfboard, it functions a little different on snow. Each side the board’s effective edge is segmented into 3 distinct parts. Beginning at the nose, the sidecut is approx. 8 meters radius. At the front binding area, the edge steps inward by 2mm, the sidecut changes to approx. 7 meters and continues with that radius until the rear insert pack. Then, the edge steps in again 2mm and the sidecut tightens to approx. 6 meters. Traditional “tapered boards” take the full sidecut and pull the tail inward, which is away from the arc of your turn – this is why they tend to wash out under hard carving. The Tapered UnderBite corrects this by: 1) keeping the sidecut parallel to its corresponding one on the other side of the board. 2) Increasing the sidecut depth as you move towards the tail creating a corrective “hook” to the taper. The board blends into turns effortlessly, has the directional drive and float you’d expect from a tapered board, but it holds an edge and rockets out of turns like nothing else.
The weightless core strikes a critical balance between lightweight and strength. Using a lower density species of Poplar in areas that are not as structural and Paulownia in the areas that are, we’re able to shave precious weight off our beloved 420 and now the 20/20. This helps a board not only float, but “feel” floaty.
Just like it says. Pellets or course powder is pressed until it forms a solid. There are several suppliers for our entire industry and they each have different codes for them, depending on the color and transparency. These codes can make it seem like you’re getting many different kinds and grades of sintered but they’re all pretty much the same as far as you and I will ever tell. True Sintered is harder and more expensive than extruded and it can be faster for those that ride aggressively fast. But to do that, it needs to be waxed and prepared for local conditions.